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Rome may not be the hippest of capitals, but for those who know the right places, it is possible to party all night. Romans go out late and the fun only really commences after dinner. The wine-bars and cafés lying between Campo de’ Fiori, Piazza Navona and Via della Pace are the places to be seen. Irish pubs have also enjoyed a boom over the last decade. The biggest concentration of nightclubs lies in the Testaccio district, where a plethora of small venues offer dancing and concerts. The gay scene is alive and kicking and accounts for many of the more avant-garde night spots. The weekly Roma C’è (website: www.romace.it) and monthly Time Out Roma publications have good information on nightlife in Rome.
The legal drinking age in Italy is 16 and the absence of licensing laws means that drinking is possible at all hours. Most wine-bars and birrerie stay open until 2400 in winter and 0200 in summer. However, in general, people are more interested in seeing and being seen – alcohol is almost an afterthought. Drink prices vary considerably – a glass of wine at the Vineria, Campo de’ Fiori, costs €2-5 (depending on the quality), while a cocktail in a nightclub could be €10.50. Half a litre of draught beer usually costs around €4. Drinks and coffees are always cheaper when consumed standing at the bar!
Romans tend to dress more casually than their counterparts in Milan and Florence, although most women do their best to look stunning for a night out.
Bars: The Vineria, right in the middle of Campo de’ Fiori, is still very ‘in’ and makes a perfect rendezvous for an early evening drink. Customers range from well-known actors to local winos, although lately the atmosphere has become a little more wannabe. Just a few doors down at number 20 is the Drunken Ship, good for those in search of English-speaking ex-pats and tourists. Equally popular but rather more refined is Antico Caffè della Pace, Via della Pace 5, close to Piazza Navona. The cosy interior is adorned with antiques, while the ivy-clad façade looks onto a notoriously popular summer terrace. For a romantic pre-dinner aperitif, take a table at Caffè di Marzio, Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere 15, and enjoy a glass of wine overlooking this delightful piazza in the heart of Trastevere.
Casinos: Gambling is banned throughout Italy (with the exceptions of Venice, San Remo and Aosta).
Clubs: House music remains a firm favourite here, although a number of smaller and more alternative clubs play rock and revival. In summer, many clubs close, giving way to the countless unofficial outdoor venues that spring up around town and beside the sea near Ostia. The rich and famous hang out at Gilda, Via Mario dei Fiori 97, close to Piazza di Spagna. Disco music dominates the dancefloor, there’s a piano bar reserved for private parties and a well-run restaurant. In summer the establishment moves out to Fregene, on the coast, for Gilda on the Beach, Via Lungomare di Ponente 11. Some of Europe’s best DJs play at Goa, Via Libetta 13, close to Mercati Generali – recent guests include the Chemical Brothers. House and jungle music predominate amid a sophistacted ethno setting – candles and mirrors, insence and flowers. Tuesday is gay night. Alien, Via Velletri 13-19, is brash and bold, with sexy dancers paid to gyrate to house, commercial and revival. Theme evenings include ‘Stardust’ (house, funk, trance and dance) on Fridays and ‘Gay ’Night’ on Saturdays. In Testaccio, Alibi, Via Monte Testaccio 39, is frequented by ‘gay and friends’ and plays predominantly house music with occasional live concerts. Close by, Zoobar, Via Monte Testaccio 22, plays house, rock and new wave to a mixed and cheerful crowd.
Live music: Jazz lovers should head for Big Mama, Vicolo di San Francesco a Ripa 18. It is notoriously cramped but pulls some good up-and-coming musicians, plus a few big names. Likewise, Fonclea, Via Crescenzio 82A, in the Prati area (close to the Vatican), stages jazz and rhythm and blues concerts. There’s a late-night restaurant and the bar serves excellent cocktails and a wide selection of whiskeys. For more new or rarefied jazz sounds and ethnic music, try the very hip (but with good reason) La Palma, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35 (near the Tiburtina metro stop). Nearby in Testacccio, Caffè Caruso, Via Monte Testaccio 36, hosts performances from local and visiting Caribbean, Cuban and Brazilian musicians, while Villaggio Globale, Ex-Mattatoio, Lungotevere Testaccio, offers a nice line in alternative and world music.
For something totally different, visit the Centri Sociali (see Culture). One that is well known as a live music hotspot is Brancaleone, Via Levanna 11, where a decisively alternative and dressed-down crowd attends concerts, films, art exhibitions and club nights. Likewise, Circolo degli Artisti, Via Casilina Vecchia 42, offers an eclectic mix of rap, reggae, cyber punk and grunge.
Rome Night Life
Rome Night Life | Rome Capital getting out like a Roman
Rome Nightlife
Rome Guide: Nightlife
